Posts

September 17

Image
September 17:  Porto - Corte This is the big day!! The challenge, as we tackle the Col de Vergio, Corsica’s highest paved road, starts almost as soon as we leave Porto. At 1,471m it may not be the highest mountain summit in the world but we must remember that we will be riding from sea level. Thankfully the vast majority of the climb is gentle so we can enjoy the awesome views of the Spelunca Gorge and savour the experience as we go. A coffee stop in Evisa, two thirds of the way up, is possible (probable!) and will allow us to re-group before tackling the final and more challenging stage through the often-misty pine forest. A descent through the pines takes us to lunch after which we will continue downwards through the Scale de Santa Regina. If nothing else will make you want to return to Corsica, the descent through this magnificent gorge which runs alongside the Golo River, Corsica’s longest, will do so! As exciting as it is beautiful it’s the most fun you can have with your pant...

September 16

Image
September 16:  Porto Today offers various options depending on preferences and energy levels. The first is to simply relax and enjoy Porto. There is a small beach and harbour and numerous cafes, bars and restaurants in which to while away the hours. It is also possible to take a sightseeing boat trip along the coastline for a unique view of the Golfe de Porto. We recommend however that everyone takes a morning ride, climbing out of the bay to the village of Piana. The road rises through the World Heritage ‘Calanche de Piana’ – fantastic natural granite sculptures which must be seen to be believed. It’s possible to retire in the village of Piana, take a coffee and return to Porto for the afternoon, whereas those hungry for more riding can press on around the coast before heading inland to experience one of the island’s toughest and most challenging climbs. “What goes up must come down” and an incredible descent through the dramatic Spelunca Gorge follows as we return to Porto. I was...

September 15

Image
September 15:  Calvi - Porto Leaving Calvi we’ll begin an unforgettable ride along a route which is widely recognised amongst cyclists as one of the most beautiful coastal routes in Europe. The first stage undulates along a rugged coastline of tiny beaches and turquoise coves. The surface might not be the smoothest we’ll encounter this week but the views do more than compensate and will take your mind off the odd lump or two! The road improves as the morning progresses and by the time we reach our coffee stop we’ll be cruising along. A beautiful 11km climb (Col de Palmarella) follows, taking us to a stunning viewpoint 400m above the coastline. Dropping down from the summit, we’ll have lunch before pushing on through numerous coastal villages. Again the views are breathtaking as we approach the tiny, eucalyptus flanked town of Porto where we stay for the next 2 nights. A stunning ride indeed!  A bluebird day.  Barely a cloud, and temps that climbed to the mid-30s.  A ...

September 14

Image
September 14:  St. Florent - Calvi We leave the coast behind us for a while this morning as we climb out of St Florent and continue southwards into a region unlike anywhere else on the island; Le Désert des Agriates. The region is named after the Corsican word agriates which means ‘cultivated plot’ or ‘garden‘. Staring out across the parched orange landscape it is difficult to imagine that the inhabitants of Cap Corse would once brave the rugged coastline by boat in order to climb the hills to tend their crops amongst the wild maquis and rocky outcrops. We drop down rapidly out of Les Agriates, cross the national road and then continue on very minor mountain roads which lead us through numerous tiny artisan villages. After lunch we continue along the Route des Artisans, stopping for coffee in the tiny village of Belvedere, high in the hills above the town of Ile Rouse (Red Island). Finally we arrive in the glitzy resort town of Calvi where we’ll dine in the old town in the shadows...

September 13

Image
September 13:  Bastia - St. Florent After breakfast we saddle up and head out for our first day of Corsican riding. Leaving the hustle and bustle of the city we head out on a stunningly beautiful coastal road. The main part of the day will be spent riding around the ‘Cap Corse‘, the island’s largest and most prominent peninsula. Beyond Bastia the road rolls gently through small settlements and pretty fishing villages and the coastline is peppered with numerous Genoese towers in varying states of disrepair. If we’re blessed with a clear day we will enjoy views of neighbouring islands Elba and Monte Cristo to the east. We’ll regroup for coffee in the village of Maccinaggio close to the tip of the peninsular before we begin the first and most significant climb of the day. It’s not a major climb by anyone’s standards, topping out at just over 350m, but we’ll wait until we’re over it before preparing lunch. The afternoon will be spent exploring the coastline further as we head south dow...

September 12

September 12:  Bastia, Corsica Bastia:  Bastia is the principal port of the island and its principal commercial town, and it known for its wines.  It has the second-highest population (about 50,000) of any city on the island.  In bed last night by about 7:30 but only slept well until about 1:30. In bed until about 8:30am, so I likely got a bit more sleep but not a whole lot. Oh well….  Breakfast on the rooftop and checked out by shortly after 10. It’s a beautiful day here today!  It would have been pretty warm on the bike, though.  A lovely setting for the city - between the ocean and the hills.  We spent most of the day just strolling through the old city.  Popped our heads in a few stores and a few churches, but mostly just strolled.   We paused for coffee on a patio in the morning, had a great lunch on a patio in the heart of the Citadel, and stopped for ice cream as we left the harbour.  More strolling back to the hotel and anot...

September 10/11

September 10 & 11:  Calgary - Bastia, France Well, that was a very long day.  Everything went smoothly; just took 3 flights and a long time to get here.  Calgary - Montreal leaving at noon on the 10th.  Then Montreal - Munich and Munich - Bastia.  We arrived in Bastia about 3pm on the 11th.  Maybe 30 minutes of total shut-eye for me for the entire trip.   Not much to note.  We met a really interesting fellow in the security line in Calgary.  He is a physiotherapist by day and a "painter" of miniature fantasy war characters by hobby.  He showed us some of his work - very intricate stuff, and a lot of it with connected electronics to a smartphone via bluetooth.  He showed us some of his stuff on instagram and I took a picture of his backpack so that I can take a look later on.  You know......  he kind of looked familiar.  Sure enough, when I looked him up I found his real name, and yes, I did go to him a few ti...